The menswear shirting techniques get wild like never before. Think pronounced cuffs, unexpected layering and artisanal patchworks. Marni’s menswear has been at the forefront of the off-kilter shirt shapes and silhouettes. In their Spring Summer 19 outing, they layered contrasting striped shirts on each other with multiple cuffs creating visual tension. Designer Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen paired an embellished pantsuit with a dress shirt which had statement cuffs. Ami’s country-inspired runway showcase had models sporting partially untucked oversized shirt. Is the classic oxford shirt dead? Is this shirt trend a result of street’s all-pervading influence? We got experts to share their take.
Designer Hemant Sagar observes that while button-down shirts have always been the go-to formal wear, designers have always tried to find means to make the shirt more versatile and multi-functional. “In a bit to add a more laidback vibe to this style, the trend of half tucked out shirts first began. This look has gained main stream momentum owing to the over lap of athleisure and tailored trends. The crisp collar and button down add sharpness and fitness while the tucked out hem softens the formal edge that this look otherwise gives off. In our Genes collection, we have put our own spin to the button down. A hybrid of kurta and button down can be seen in our ‘Vivid Vertigo’ button-down shirt. And the basic white shirt has been upgraded to a printed blouson which can be layered with tees to create a street smart look for the summer,” says Hemant.
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Designer Karrtik Dhingra of label Karrtik D sees these shirts as a cool way to make a statement. “The partially tucked shirt gives a casual vibe yet looks stylish. Style the look with either a pair of denims, chinos or shorts. However, this look should be avoided with formal pants,” cautions Karrtik.
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In the menswear space, there’s a movement towards a new interpretation of tailoring techniques and labels like Marni and Jil Sander, Jacquemus have catalysed it.
“Today designers are trying to figure out ways to portray tailoring in new formats of innerwear and outerwear, for instance, the blazer on blazer layering. Personally, I am a fan of the boxy shirts which is a nod to the 80s. However, I’d suggest balance the proportions while opting for these shirts. Maybe style an exaggerated shirt with tapered bottoms. And if you’re skinny, you could even team two big separates,” says stylist Divyak D’Souza.
Author tweets @dandydujour
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Jun 03, 2019 15:53 IST
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